(*siphon system directions below)
This seems to be a tough one for some people, so instead of writing it every time I sell a pump, I thought that I would write it once here!
Many of the pumps cylinders I sell are the open top #449B style. I like these pumps because you can pull the plunger out of the cylinder and pipe when you need to change the leathers. No need to ever pull the pipe and cylinder again.
This is a four leather pump, as compared to the 2 leather #303 pumps. Depending on the well specifications, I will get you the right size pump for the Windmill you want to purchase. If you got a 449B pump, here's what you need to do:
The complete pump should be removed from the box. With the larger part of the cylinder opening facing down on your work area, bang it down and free up the plunger and check valve inside. It should come out with a good thump, but nothing will be harmed. I have a wood work bench and I do this ALL the time. If you can't get it to come out then get a piece of 5/8ths threaded rod and thread it into the plunger and pull it out. You'll need to unthread the separate pieces and remove all of the shipping news paper.
Separate the plunger from the check valve and set the cylinder aside. This will expose a brass nipple between the plunger and the check valve. Here's the scary part...Paul and I have found over the years that cutting off this brass nipple is the best thing to do. Since I ALWAYS suggest a lower second foot valve below the pump, this check valve inside the pump can be seated and never should be removed. If you cut off the nipple, you can then put the graduated end of the check valve into the cylinder. You'll need to seat this check valve so I have a broom handle that fits nicely into the cylinder and I give it a hard thump to make sure that it won't come out! The trouble with the brass nipple is if your plunger catches the nipple and you pull up the check valve, you'll never pump ANY water. You never want to catch the bottom check valve so THAT'S why I cut off the nipple!
Now that leaves you with a 4 leather plunger. You'll need to tighten all of the parts together, but not TOO tight. I always tell people to tighten like a girl would…no need to kill anything! Since it's brass, it's easy to crush or damage so use your tools wisely!
Don't forget to install the foot valve below the cylinder. The foot valve is always the first thing down the well!
GOOD LUCK and call me (530-644-3008) if you don't understand this instruction.
Non well water pumping systems directions:
The foot valve has to go to the supply end (the pond) and hang with the female threads "up". Use your PVC nipple and attach it to your PVC elbow then run your PVC line all the way to the galvanized windmill plumbing that I supplied and you'll install next. Leave plenty of PVC length; it's easy to cut.
Briefly, the one of the long galvanized nipple needs to be attached to the galvanized elbow. The second long galvanized nipple and will be attached to the 4" pump. Paul attached a 12" nipple to the "T" and also attached packer. The top of the packer gets the red flange.
You need to cement ALL of the galvanized plumbing and the pump into the ground RIGHT UNDER THE WINDMILL. I can't stress that enough. Make sure that you set the vertical nipple smack dab in the middle of the tower, plumb and level, directly under the windmill. The windmill will want to PULL the plumbing right out of the ground so a good mix of concrete is important. You don't want to cement the pump cylinder to the ground, only the vertical nipple it's attached to. The cylinder will thread onto the nipple...some day you might need to remove it. Let the cement dry a couple days, more is better for strength.
You need to prime the plumbing after you cement all the galvanized pieces into the ground and before you screw on the pump. I have the pump soaking overnight in water to swell the leathers. When you attach the pump to the vertical nipple, fill it with water to prime the pump.
It's important that when you attach the pump to the packer with the 5/8 to 5/8" adapter you push the plunger ALL the way down then bring it off the bottom by an inch. THIS will match your windmills "bottom of the stroke".
Apply the brake lever from the bottom of the tower. Spin the windmill to the bottom of the stroke and vise grip hub to brake band to keep from spinning.
Purchase a piece of 2X4 kiln dried Doug fir wood and rip it in half to make a piece of 2X2. You'll need to shave off a piece of the end so that it fits inside the flange of the upper windmill sucker rod. Attach the 2X2 wood rod with 2 nuts and bolts.
Attach the wood rod guides on each of the horizontal girts with the 3" hole in the middle. Your wood rod will go through these holes.
Attach the red 2-piece connector to the topside of the wood rod and leave the bottom side of the flange "open".
Your windmill is on the bottom of the stroke and so is your pump/packer assembly. The wood rod is inside the tower and the wood rod guides are on the horizontal girts. Measure from the top piece of wood down to the flat spot inside the flange. Measure twice, cut once. Connect the wood and release the windmill and watch it spin it SLOWLY. Watch the brass packer rod; make sure it doesn't hit the red bottom flange. Watch too that it doesn't try to pull up on the up stroke. The stroke should be smooth.
THERE YOU HAVE IT! Call me at 530-644-3008 if you have ANY questions!